Casey & Groesbeck Construction Updates

Steel Studs for Interior Walls

2010-03-15T09:52:00.002-05:00

Wood versus steel studs.

As quality lumber becomes more expensive and harder to find, we're finding that more and more builders are framing their homes with steel. Both load bearing and non-load bearing steel studs are already used extensively in commercial construction.

Much of the wood we have now is warped and soft. Often with wood studs when you look down the wall it waves back and forth. With steel they are deadly straight and accurate. You pull a string across them and they are exact. With interior steel studs you get flatter and cheaper walls."

While interior steel studs work quite well, there are still problems with them for exterior walls. Structural steel studs for exterior walls provide poor insulating values. In Minnesota, cold transferring through the steel presents heating and moisture condensation problems.

How do you install it?

You install steel framing much like conventional wood framing. A basic system consists of galvanized C-shaped studs, joists and channels. You use the channels at the top and bottom of the walls, similar to plates. The studs fit into the channels, held in place with self-tapping screws. Punched holes in studs allow for electrical wiring and plumbing. Steel studs come in gauges, from 14 to 26 .

Common studs come in five widths: 1 5/8", 2", 3 5/8", 4" and 6".

Steel studs don't warp, split or burn and building with steel is fast. Another advantage of steel is the clear spans it can breach. Steel trusses when used on the main floor allow for 20' and 30' column-free spans in the basement. The greatest advantage is the floor's strength. An ordinary wood floor has about 40 lb. bearing load at legal deflection. Steel carries a 127-lb load at legal deflection.

Troubleshooting Roof Leaks

2010-02-15T10:41:00.000-06:00

The cost of installing the roof on a new building usually amounts to less than 5% of the total construction cost. Yet some lawyers estimate that 60% to 80% of construction lawsuits involve roof failures. Often, it's a small leak that quickly grows into a big expensive problem.

The following problems are among the most common that have been encountered. In every case, the leak could have been avoided had the installer used common sense and paid more attention to detail.

Asphalt Shingle Roofs

Problem: No drip edge. If asphalt shingles are installed without a drip edge, it's only a matter of time before the plywood sheathing and fascia begins to rot. Water dripping off the edges of the roofing is drawn by capillary action to the exposed edges of the plywood sheathing.
Solution: Install a metal drip edge at rakes and eaves. The main purpose of a metal drip edge is to interrupt the wicking of water to the sheathing edges.

Problem: Felt underlayment incorrectly lapped under (instead of over) the metal drip edge. Any water that may get under the shingles - for instance, from wind-driven rain - should be carried by the felt underlayment over the top of the drip edge.
Solution: Lap the felt underlayment over the drip edge.

Problem: Valley shingles were not tabbed or spotted with roofing cement. The large volume of water that collects in a valley can back up under uncemented shingles.
Solution: In a closed valley, embed valley shingles in roofing cement. Always clip the top corner of the valley shingles at a 45-degree angle. This prevents debris from getting caught in the shingles and accumulating in the valley, and it also will direct water toward the valley centerline. For extra protection, install a self-adhering eaves membrane under valleys.

Problem: Roofing nails. Exposed roofing nails are sometimes a source of leaks.
Solution: Cover exposed nail heads with a dab of roofing cement when exposed nails can't be avoided (as with cap shingles).

Problem: Excessive shingle overhang. An installer apparently believed that increasing the overhang on the first course of shingles would help direct the water into the gutter, and would substitute for the metal drip edge. However, the shingles eventually crease under their own weight and break off, exposing the edge of the sheathing beneath.
Solution: Shingles should overhang beyond the metal drip 1/8 nch to 1/4 inch, according to recommendations from the Asphalt Roof Manufacturers Association.

Below-Grade Moisture Control

2010-01-20T13:56:00.000-06:00

Perhaps the most overlooked and challenging technical issue for the builder is foundation moisture control. It is frequently overlooked because professionals and consumers alike fail to recognize the tremendous impact the below-grade moisture can have on overall building durability and indoor air quality.

While there may be no simple answers, it is useful to review the various below-grade moisture issues. First, it is important to recognize that many of the moisture problems we see in homes are a result of significant amounts of below-grade moisture entry, both liquid and vapor, into the home. Second, it is helpful to isolate each moisture movement mechanism that ultimately contributes to building durability and indoor quality.

Liquid flow by gravity is relatively simple and fairly easy to accommodate by properly draining rainwater away from the building. Control measures include overhangs, gutters with extended downspouts, positive slope away from the building, porous back fill (or drainage mat) with an impermeable cap, a carefully installed drainage system at the footing, and a high quality damp proofing system.

Hydrostatic flow results from water standing next to the foundation. This can be due to large quantities of surface water saturating the adjacent soil or a rise in the ground water next to the foundation. A properly installed foundation drainage system should be designed to quickly relieve this hydrostatic pressure. If longer-term hydrostatic pressure is anticipated, a high quality waterproofing system must be used to provide resistance against hydrostatic flow.

Capillary action or "wicking," is the flow of water through small pores due to surface tension and adhesion. For below-grade moisture, the key capillary concerns are through the floor slab and from the footing to the foundation wall. For the floor, use a layer of washed aggregate or impermeable membrane below the slab. For the foundation wall, install a capillary break such as a waterproof coating or durable membrane between the footing and foundation wall. For concrete masonry walls, it is important to keep the cores dry.

Water Vapor Flow
Diffusion of water vapor is a slow, but relentless, moisture movement mechanism. Water vapor will try to travel from more to less. In saturated soils, the water vapor moves from the ground into the foundation and home for most of the year. Fortunately, diffusion is easy to slow with a vapor retarder. A quality damp proofing or waterproofing coating or membrane on the foundation walls and a durable, impermeable membrane under the slab will generally control below-grade diffusion.

Top 5 Home Repairs You Cannot Ignore

2009-12-30T07:32:00.000-06:00

A water leak anywhere should not be ignored. Whether it's a stain on your ceiling, a toilet that leaks or white powdery stuff that grows on your bricks or foundation the culprit is water and damage can be severe. Left unchecked, it can lead to rot, dry rot, or mold. Water may cause a roof to collapse, foundations to buckle and any number of expensive repairs. And the water damage may get you in trouble with your insurance company. The answer is to stop the leak by any means necessary, repair the damage and take the required steps to make sure the problem doesn't reappear.
A smokey chimney may lead to some serious repercussions. A chimney that isn't properly cleaned and maintained can catch fire placing your family in significant danger. Creosote, a by-product of wood burning, can build up in the flue and ignite unless removed. Get your chimney swept and inspected annually; the cost is about $100.
Rodent Invasions: If you're hearing the pitter patter of little rodent feet, then you may have a serious problem in your house. It's not just that they carry disease, but rats, mice and other vermin love to chew through insulation and wiring which can cause a house fire. Use traps and bait products or call an exterminator.
Soaring fuel bills can be caused by more than just price hikes. The culprit could be problems with your furnace. This is more than a pocket book issue, since poorly functioning systems can cause deadly carbon monoxide buildup in your home. Have your furnace professionally cleaned and inspected annually, including the flue. Install carbon monoxide detectors which cost $25 to $50 each to keep your family safe.
A ground fault circuit interrupter is an electrical outlet with distinctive red and black buttons designed to prevent deadly short circuits. Outlets in bathrooms and those in kitchens within six feet of the sink should be replaced with GFCI outlets. If there is an accident where an appliance may short out, the GFCI will trip the electricity to turn off. It will be the best $7 you ever spent. The exception is the refrigerator. Do not put your fridge on a GFCI. Its normal on-and-off surges can trip the interrupter and leave you with an icebox full of spoiled food.

Our Unique Roof Projects

2009-12-10T08:58:00.001-06:00

This summer and fall we've had the opportunity to work on three rather unique roof projects, projects somewhat different and more challenging than the typical tear-off and re-shingle project.

Steep Roof and Metal Shingles: We were selected as the general contractor for the St. John Lutheran Church 2009 Re-roof Project. This roof was a very steep 18/12 & 24/12 pitch. The project required proper, licensed removal of the existing asbestos shingles and the single layer of buffalo board underneath the waterproof felts. We installed a new roof consisting of two layers of 3 inch foam insulation with an OSB nailer layer on top. Roof felts and metal shingles were installed over the nailer.

It was originally an uninsulated "hot roof" construction where the underside of the roof boards were also the visible ceiling in the church, so the screws to attach the insulation and nailer had to be long enough for sufficient hold, but not too long to penetrate through the roof deck. We found the specified screws had insufficient hold so we located a better screw, which the project architect and warranting manufacturer approved.

We had concerns that the support blocking specified was insufficient to hold the weight of the roof, given how steep the roof was. The design drawings showed a generic blocking detail for a much lower pitched roof. After further engineering the architect agreed with our concern, accepted our proposed stronger support blocking details, and increased the screw count for each sheet of insulation.

Some of the work was done from tall boom lifts, mainly to lift the material up or down. But for greater efficiency the demolition and installation was done mostly while standing on the roof, using safety harnesses with climbing hardware to easily adjust the rope length for mobility and to assist in climbing the roof.

Going from a completely uninsulated roof to a code compliant insulated roof should bring a quick return on investment due to reduced heating cost for the church.

Shake Shingle Roof: The first project was simple enough, tear off and reshingle a rotted wood shake roof, but it was a very large roof, seven thousand square feet, and the owner wanted very thick shakes, not the standard, usual thickness. And he wanted to do everything possible to extend their life; to keep them from rotting and to retard the growth of moss. Through our local supplier, Alexander Lumber, we located thick wood shakes from a supplier in the Pacific northwest. We also learned of a breather fabric that we installed between the waterproofing felts and the shakes. This fabric allowed for better drainage and air circulation under the shakes so they will dry out quicker and be much less likely to rot.

To prevent moss growth we looked at two products. One was a spray on organic solution. It was expensive and had to be sprayed on every few years and required the roof to be thoroughly cleaned before application, adding to the overall lifetime cost. The second solution we looked at and installed was Z-Stop Zinc Strip. Z-Stop can be installed on composition, shingle, shake or tile roofs. It is installed at the roof peaks, under the ridge cap, beneath chimney gables, skylights, etc. It won't remove existing moss but inhibits the growth of moss on new or newly cleaned roofs.

Roof board tear-off: Our final unique roof project for the season was for an older, large lakefront home with a poorly insulated roof. The roof consisted of 2x6 joists with the drywall ceiling attached directly to the bottom of the joists and the plywood roof boards attached to the top of the joists, with six inches of insulation between. This construction was far from adequate by today's code standards and energy costs, and left virtually no room for air circulation to vent the roof. Then, while searching for a leak that needed repaired, we cut in to the roof deck and discovered that the insulation had sagged, leaving large spaces with no insulation at all.

The owner decided to have the roof re-insulated. Rather than tearing in to the interior drywall ceiling, after tearing off the roofing material we tore off all the roof boards and removed the fiberglass insulation batts. We cut six inch thick sheets of foam insulation to fit between the joist. We foam caulked around all the edges to seal the cracks then added furring to make the roof thicker and allow for correct venting. Slightly taller fascia boards and new very heavy duty shingles completed the repair.

As with all our jobs, with these three roof projects we were able discover and research the problem and adapt our solulution to provide the best finished construction for our customer.

Maintenance of Brick Masonry

2009-11-16T13:18:00.000-06:00

Brick is a handsome, durable and nearly trouble free exterior for both residential and commercial construction. But to properly maintain the appearance and durability of a masonry facade it is essential that it be properly constructed and periodically maintained.

Weather, meaning rain, moisture and or Minnesota freeze and thaw cycle, is the enemy of masonry. If given the opportunity, wind driven moisture will seep its way into the thinnest crack, freeze, then spal off a tiny piece of mortar. Leaving a slightly bigger crack for the next cycle. Over time, without proper maintenance, this spalling cycle can lead to disintegrating mortar, cracked and loose brick, and interior water leaks. A white powdery substance on the wall exterior called efflorescence, which is a fine salt like substance is often evidence of moisture within the wall. These interior water leaks can cause mold and mildew. They could eventually rust out the connections holding the brick facade to the building structure, which could allow the wall to bow out and may result in a collapse of part of the building facade.

A properly constructed masonry wall consists of wicks and weep holes to allow any condensation that collects inside the wall to drain out. The mortar joints are tooled to allow rain to run off, rather than collect on ledges or rough edges. Sills are properly sloped and caulked and overhang the wall to allow water to drip free of rather than run down the face of the wall. Wall caps must also overhang the wall and include a drip break to allow water to drip clear from the face of the wall. It is especially important that any joints in the wall cap are properly caulked because a leak here will allow moisture into the brick or between the brick facade and the structural wall.

Over time, all exterior masonry walls will need repair to restore the mortar to near original condition with a process called tuckpointing. Tuckpointing consists of the raking, grinding or fine sandblasting of the joints to remove all loose and powdery mortar. If the mortar is cracked, it is chiseled out so the new mortar will have a more solid base to bond to. The old mortar is then moistened to aid in adhesion and control shrinkage, and then new mortar is applied to the joints and tooled to match the original joint. Particular attention must be given to the wall caps. The mortar between the clay tile caps used on older commercial buildings and residential chimneys is very likely bad and allowing water to leak into the wall. These caps should be replaced with a new stone or metal cap flashing.

With proper maintenance, some exterior masonry facades have lasted for well over one hundred years.

Mold Remediation Guidelines

2009-10-27T13:59:00.009-05:00

Cleanup Methods

A variety of mold cleanup methods are available for remediating damage to building materials and furnishings caused by moisture control problems and mold growth. The specific method or group of methods used will depend on the type of material affected.

Method 1: Wet Vacuum

Wet vacuums are vacuum cleaners designed to collect water. They can be used to remove water from floors, carpets, and hard surfaces where water has accumulated. They should be used only when materials are still wet-wet vacuums may spread spores if sufficient liquid is not present. The tanks, hoses, and attachments of those vacuums should be thoroughly cleaned and dried after use since mold and mold spores may stick to the surfaces.
Method 2: Damp Wipe
Whether dead or alive, mold is allergenic, and some molds may be toxic. Mold can generally be removed from nonporous (hard) surfaces by wiping or scrubbing with water, or water and detergent or bleach. It is important to dry these surfaces quickly and thoroughly to discourage further mold growth. Porous materials that are wet and have mold growing on them may have to be discarded.

Method 3: HEPA Vacuum

HEPA (High-Efficiency Particulate Air) vacuums are recommended for final cleanup of remediation areas after materials have been thoroughly dried and contaminated materials removed. HEPA vacuums are also recommended for cleanup of dust that may have settled on surfaces outside the remediation area. The filter and contents of the HEPA vacuum must be disposed of in well-sealed plastic bags.

Method 4: Discard

Remove damaged materials and seal in plastic bags. Building materials and furnishings that are contaminated with mold growth and are not salvageable should be double-bagged using 6-mil polyethylene sheeting. It is important to package mold contaminated materials in sealed bags before removal from the containment area to minimize the dispersion of mold spores throughout the building. Large items that have heavy mold growth should be covered with polyethylene sheeting and sealed with duct tape before they are removed from the containment area.

Always use gloves and eye protection when cleaning up mold!

Mold in Commercial & Residential Buildings

2009-10-09T10:51:00.001-05:00

Concern about indoor exposure to mold has been increasing as the public becomes aware that exposure to mold can cause a variety of health effects and symptoms, including allergic reactions. In addition, molds gradually destroy the materials they grow on. These health and financial concerns are important reasons to prevent mold growth.

Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any organic substance, as long as moisture and oxygen are present. When excessive moisture accumulates in buildings or on building materials, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or unaddressed. It is impossible to eliminate all
mold and mold spores from indoors, however, mold growth can be controlled by controlling moisture indoors.

The key to mold control is moisture control. Solve moisture problems before they become mold problems.

Mold Prevention Tips:

Fix leaky plumbing and building leaks as soon as possible.
Watch for condensation and wet spots. Find the sources as soon as possible.
Prevent moisture due to condensation by increasing surface temperature or reducing the moisture level in the air. To increase surface temperature, insulate or increase air circulation. To reduce the moisture level in the air, repair leaks, increase ventilation if outside air is cold and dry, or dehumidify if indoor air is warm and humid.
Keep HVAC drip pans and drain hoses clean, flowing properly, and unobstructed.
Vent moisture-generating appliances, such as dryers, to the outside where possible.
Run exhaust fans when you are generating moisture, such as while cooking or showering.
Maintain low indoor humidity, below 60% relative humidity, ideally 30%-50% if possible.
Perform regular building / HVAC inspections and maintenance as scheduled.
Clean and dry wet spots within 48 hours.
Don't let foundations stay wet. Provide drainage and slope the ground away from the building foundation for drainage.

Serious mold problems require remediation. Call Casey & Groesbeck Construction if you suspect that you have mold problems. We'll investigate the possible causes and offer ideas to correct the problem. www.caseygroesbeck.com

I'll cover mold remediation briefly in my next post. Also see my link "Mold in Buildings" to connect to the EPA web site on the subject.

Our new website & blog

2009-10-06T16:17:00.004-05:00

Last night we launched a new web site for our company, www.caseygroesbeck.com. Our company is an industrial, commercial and residential General Contracting company. Check out the site to learn more about us.

Meanwhile, today I enter my 1st blog post.

Check back for updates of what we are working on, up to date information about our company, and articles of interest to building owners, facilities managers and homeowners.